The BioColour Library Coloration Technology. 2025; 1-14
Publications
Scientific publications
2025
Home economics teachers’ endeavours to engage students in sustainability thinking through clothing and fashion: a transformational teaching approach Scandinavian Journal of Educational Research
Natural indigo toxicity for aquatic and terrestrial organisms Ecotoxicology and Environmental Safety. 290
Crafting Sustainable Fashion: Dimensions of Care in Wearer-Clothing Relationships Fashion Theory, 1–26
Discovery of Cortinarius O-methyltransferases for the heterologous production of dermolutein and physcion Biotechnol. Biofuels Bioprod. 18, 25 (2025)
Chemical profiling and characterisation of anthraquinone-based polyphenols as biocolourants from Cortinarius semisanguineus Coloration Technology, 1-34
Natural indigo toxicity for aquatic and terrestrial organisms Volume 290, 2025, 117606, ISSN 0147-6513,
2024
Anthraquinone biocolourant dermocybin is metabolized whereas dermorubin is not in in vitro liver fractions and recombinant metabolic enzymes Basic & Clinical Pharmacology & Toxicology. 134, 6
In Vitro Toxicity Assessment of Cortinarius sanguineus Anthraquinone Aglycone Extract Journal of fungi . 10, 6, 15
Sustainable value chain for colour – polyphenols as colourants and aiding chemicals Polyphenols Communications. 2, s. 278-278
The natural anthraquinone dye emodin: Eco/genotoxicological characterization for aquatic organisms Food and Chemical Toxicology. 189
Anthraquinone biocolourant dermocybin is metabolized whereas dermorubin is not in in vitro liver fractions and recombinant metabolic enzymes Basic Clin Pharmacol Toxicol. 2024; 1-12
2023
Color Matters: an exploratory study on the role of color on clothing consumption choices . . Clothing cultures, 8 (2) pp. 221–244.
Zero waste nettle – process optimization to refine nettle (Urtica dioica) into multi-purpose materials: textile fibres and colourants Xxxi International Horticultural Congress, Ihc2022: International Symposium On Natural Colorants From Plants.
Waterless dyeing with plant-based natural dyes as colorants Acta Horticulturae
Comparative transcriptomic analysis of key genes involved in citrinin biosynthesis in Monascus purpureus J. Fungi, 9, 200, 2023
Natural Colorants from Lichens and Mushrooms Handbook of Natural Colorants. Bechtold, T., Manian, A. P. & Pham, T. (toim.). Second Edition toim. Wiley, s. 317-331
Acryloyl Esters of Emodin for Waterless Dyeing and Toxicological Studies Coloration Technology
Is natural better? An ecotoxicity study of anthraquinone dyes Chemosphere Volume 343, December 2023, 140174
“It probably could’ve done with less plastic” – Consumers’ cyclical and uneasy relationship with food packaging Frontiers in sustainability, Sec. Sustainable Consumption, no 4.
Packaging journey from retail to home: How the meaning of sustainability for colour transforms International Journal of Retail & Distribution Management, 51(13), 47-63
Unsupervised Spectral Analysis of Bio-Dyed Textile Samples International Journal of Network Dynamics and Intelligence. 2023, 2(2), 100001
In Situ Adsorption of Red Onion (Allium cepa) Natural Dye on Cellulose Model Films and Fabrics Exploiting Chitosan as a Natural Mordant ACS Omega 2023, 8, 6, 5451–5463. Publication Date:January 31, 2023
2022
Mutagenicity of dyes: a call to fill the knowledge gaps and improve our predictive ability Toxicology Letters. 368
Metabolism of two anthraquinone dyes obtained from Cortinarius sanguineus Toxicology Letters. 368
Waterless Dyeing and In Vitro Toxicological Properties of Biocolorants from Cortinarius sanguineus Journal of Fungi. 2022; 8(11):1129
Sustainable eco-luxury in the Scandinavian context In Henninger, C. & Athwal, N. (Eds.) Sustainable Luxury – An international perspective. Palgrave MacMillan, Springer Nature, pp. 35-57.
Effect of Hybrid Type and Harvesting Season on Phytochemistry and Antibacterial Activity of Extracted Metabolites from Salix Bark Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry. 70(9), 2948-2956
2021
Industrial Application of Pigments from Macrofungi Advances in Macrofungi: Industrial Avenues and Prospects. Sridhar, K. R. & Deshmukh, S. K. (toim.). Boca Raton, FL: CRC press
Colorful macrofungi and their pigment structures Advances in Macrofungi: Industrial Avenues and Prospects. Sridhar, K. R. & Deshmukh, S. K. (toim.). Boca Raton, FL: CRC press
Finnish Home Economics Teachers Enabling Sustainability and Consumer Skills for Young People. Proceedings of the Canadian Symposium XVI Issues and Directions for Home Economics/Family Studies/ Human Ecology. Virtual Symposium. Hosted by the University of British Columbia, Vancouver, B.C., Canada
Perspectives to a Living Design Medium – First encounters with a fermented indigo vat. Ruukku, Research Catalogue.
Separation of fiber bundles from willow bark using sodium bicarbonate and their novel use in yarns for superior UV protection and antibacterial performance Industrial Crops and Products, Volume 164.
Three Futures Scenarios of Policy Instruments for Sustainable Textile Production and Consumption as Portrayed in the Finnish News Media Sustainability. 13(2): 16 p., 594.
A fungal-based anthraquinone emodin for polylactide and polyethylene terephthalate in supercritical carbon dioxide (SC-CO2) dyeing Color Research and Application. 1–7.
2020
Biomordanting of a natural dye from willow bark on cellulosic materials Coloration Technology 2020, 136 (1), 3-14.
Examining safety of biocolourants from fungal and plant sources – examples from Cortinarius and Tapinella, Salix and Tanacetum spp. and dyed woollen fabrics. Antibiotics 2020, 9(5), 266.
2019
Fungal colorants in applications – focus on Cortinarius species Coloration Technology. 135, 1
Towards sustainable textile materials: Potential Pathways and Dialogues between Disciplines. NORDES 2019: WHO CARES? 3-4 June 2019, Aalto University, Finland.
Theses
Historical, Contemporary, and Future Meanings of Arimatsu Shibori – A Study of Cultural Heritage (Master’s thesis, University of Helsinki)
Toxicity of Bisorbibutenolide in Human Hepatic HEPG2 Cells (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Toxicity of Biocolourants – In Vitro Study on Toxicity of Bisorbicillinol (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Toxicity of Biocolorant Emodin in Human Hepatic HEPG2 Cells (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Using Transfer Learning to Improve Training of Bio-colour Predictions (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Data Augmentation Methods for Deep Learning Neural Networks (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Deep Learning Neural Network Based on Image Filters (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Deep Learning for the classification of plants with natural colourants (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Unsupervised clustering-based spectral analysis of bio-dyed textile samples (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Pigments of microorganisms (MA thesis, Contemporary Design, Aalto ARTS)
Neural Networks-Based Biocolor and Artificial Color Classification Using Reflectance Spectra (Master’s thesis, University of Eastern Finland)
Other publications & presentations
2025
Pathways to sustainable use of resources: Biocolourants, textiles, and plastics in focus IMPRES research programme’s White Paper
Unlocking Natural Resources for Cost-Effective Sustainability Kemiauutiset KemiNyheter ChemistryNews. 2025
The Chemistry behind Natural Colorants sourced from Mushrooms Kemiauutiset KemiNyheter ChemistryNews. 2025
2024
Introducing BioColour: Sustainable Solutions in Colouration Tekstiiliopettaja. 70, 2
Craft education in Finnish basic education Tekstiiliopettaja. 70, 2
Biocolours2024: Sustainable Value Chain for Colour: Book of Abstracts Helsinki: Helsingin yliopisto
BioColour Library database
2023
Designing experimental aesthetics with structural colour In Niinimäki, K. & Lohmann, J. (Eds.) Biocolours; Sustainable stories from nature, lab and industry. Espoo; Aalto books, pp. 187-209
Sustainable Colour Aesthetics In Niinimäki, K. & Lohmann, J. (Eds.)Biocolours; Sustainable stories from nature, lab and industry. Espoo; Aalto books, pp. 217-233
Towards Durability and Extended Lifespan – Caring for Clothes as a Sustainability Practice PROCEEDINGS 5th PLATE Conference. Niinimäki, K. & Cura, K. (toim.). Aalto University
New biocolorant database for the quality control of natural colorants and products containing them Xxxi International Horticultural Congress, Ihc2022: International Symposium On Natural Colorants From Plants. Räisänen, R., DeLaSayette, A. & Cardon, D. (toim.). Angers, France: International Society for Horticultural Science
Networking in biocolour research – creating increasing value and impact XXXI International Horticultural Congress (IHC2022): International Symposium on Natural Colorants from Plants. Räisänen, R., DeLaSayette, A. & Cardon, D. (toim.). Angers, France: International Society for Horticultural Science,
Consumers’ concern about chemicals in clothing – Environment, skin contact, and the materiality of colour PROCEEDINGS 5th PLATE Conference. Niinimäki, K. & Cura, K. (toim.). Aalto University
Colour collaboration Biocolours: Sustainable stories from nature, lab and industry. Niinimäki, K. & Lohmann, J. (toim.). Aalto-yliopisto
Colourants and sustainability Biocolours: Sustainable stories from nature, lab and industry. Niinimäki, K. & Lohmann, J. (toim.). Aalto-yliopisto
Biocolours – Sustainable stories from nature, lab and industry Aalto ARTS Books, Espoo, Finland
2020
Toxicity and human health risks of colourants Is it Safe to Dye? -webinar 18.8.2020
Dyes in the aquatic environment: should we worry about them? Is it Safe to Dye? -webinar 18.8.2020
Consumers’ views on packaging, materials and colours – should the dye be recycled as well? BioColour Splashes -event 17.8.2020, Think Corner, Helsinki
Engaging with materiality and colour from design perspective – Communicating matter/s BioColour Splashes -event 17.8.2020, Think Corner, Helsinki
Engaging with materiality and colour through biocolourants Aalto University web page, 14.8.2020
2019
What is colour and how to produce it BioColour Open for All Kick Off, 11.11.2019, Think Corner, University of Helsinki, oral presentation.
Colourants in the future by synthetic biology BioColour Open for All Kick Off, 11.11.2019, Think Corner, University of Helsinki, oral presentation.
Bio-based Dyes and Pigments for Colour Palette - Combining Traditions with Innovations Dyes in History and Archaeology, 7.-8.11.2019, University of Amsterdam, Netherlands, poster presentation.
Learning materials
Biocolour – Exploring Sustainable Colour online exhibition tour Instagram live recording 22.10.2021
BioColour in media
Biocolour – Exploring Sustainable Colour online exhibition tour Instagram live recording 22.10.2021